Operation Kayak-Cam 2.0 :: Getting Elevated

I recently installed a homemade camera mount in my kayak simply by running a bolt through the foredeck and threading my Slik SBH-100DQ Ball Head onto the bolt. That set-up was much improved over the pedestrian methods we were using to film while paddling before that, and provided some decent video on a fishing trip.

So after that moderate success, I was determined to create an elevated mount that would provide not only a better perspective (one that more closely resembled what the paddler was seeing at eye-level), but also one that could include the paddler in the video. 

After doing a little research, I discovered that others had rigged contraptions similar to what I had in mind. Thus I set out to the hardware store in search of parts. And in order to do what I've done, here's what you'll need: 

• Toilet flange, 3"
• Reducing Coupler, 3" to 2" (either PVC or rubber - I tried both)
• 2" PVC Pipe, 2-ft in length
• Coupler, 2" to 2"
• Cap or Plug, 2"
• 1/4" Bolts (4), 1 1/4" long
• 1/4" Washers (4)
• 1/4" Nuts or Wingnuts (4)
• 1/4" Bolt (1), 1" long

Installing the flange on the aft deck of the kayak was really the hardest part. After determining the best placement of the flange, and marking where the holes would go [remember the old proverb: measure twice, drill/cut once], I then had to get up the courage to drill four holes in my boat. Upon drilling the holes, I re-placed the flange and ran the bolts through the holes, installing the washers and nuts within the hull.

Showing: 3" Flange attached to Kayak

 Piecing together the rest was done easily enough, from bottom to top: flange + reducing coupler + 2ft-pipe + coupler + plug. I then drilled a hole through the plug/cap and installed the 1/4" bolt (1" long) through that hole, to which the ballhead attaches. You may need another nut or washer between the cap and tripod head to make sure it gets snug before rounding out.

Showing: Flange, Reducing Coupler, Pipe, and Coupler

Showing: Top of Pipe, Coupler, Cap, and Tripod Head

After getting everything pieced and fastened together, it was time test this newest fabrication. A friend and I carried the kayak down to a local pond for a trial run. Mostly we were interested to know which would be better the rubber reducing coupler or the PVC version.

As you may have noticed, the rubber mount allowed for a little more sway while paddling. Pros: Any impact that mount or camera must absorb upon flipping will be reduced because of the give. Cons: Experiencing some vertigo and nausea while watching videos. An important note to add here is that I tethered the camera to the boat so that in the unfortunate event that disaster struck, the camera would likely be salvaged.

Completed Project, Awaiting Test Run

To my disappointment, the focal length of my Flip UltraHD Video Camera is roughly the equivalent of 35mm in film formats, which isn't very wide. Presently, it allows only glimpses of the paddle, and nothing of the boat or paddler. The easiest solution to this is to used a camera with a wider focal length. I have a Panasonic DMC-LX3 with good video capabilities, but currently water resistant housing I built for it has fallen into disrepair.

The Elevated Mount in Action

Operation Kayak-Cam

For some time, I and my paddling cohorts have made great use of my Flip UltraHD Video Camera and its Flip Video Underwater Case while on the water. This is my second such Flip, because the first one is still probably at the bottom of the Mulberry Fork somewhere, or perhaps is made its way down to the Gulf by now.

But there has long been a limitation...recording while paddling is very problematic. We overcame this obstacle a couple different times, but only in a limited fashion.

• In March at Kings Bend by wedging the camera between Tyler's life-jacket, as can be seen beginning at the 8:30 mark in this video

• And most recently at the Hargrove Shoals, where I can be seen to be dumped out of my boat, beginning at 1:24 in the video below.

Well as I saw it, there were a couple of ways to rectify the situation. I could buy a helmet cam, which would, of course, be the best and most practical way to go. However, it's not the most economical. So I thought up a way to make a mount, though it did require me to risk ruining my underwater housing for my Flip and drilling a hole in my kayak. But sometimes the risk is worth the reward.

So Operation Kayak-Cam commenced...

I was determined to drill the hole for the mount just north of the cockpit, so that the camera will be easily within arms reach, and I'll be able to leash it to the boat. To mount the camera to the boat, I took a lightweight tripod head (Slik SBH-100DQ Ball Head with Quick Release) that I carry on my monopod, and screwed it to boat.

Using the tripod head, should create a stable platform to hold the camera steadily in a fixed position. In addition to the Flip, I drilled a hold in the waterproof housing I built for my Panasonic DMC-LX3, which will give me the opportunity to take still photographs or video.

Now I'm all set to hit the water and give this setup a trial run. Here's hoping it works as well in practice as it appears it will in theory.

Form Follows Function - LX3 Water Resistant Housing

I am a firm believer in the age old epithet that "form follows function." And since I'm barely functional when it comes to all things ingenuitive, form not only takes a backseat, it rarely makes it into the same vehicle.

In fact, only once have I actually been successful in the creating of a thing. But that once made has made me immensely proud. Due to my kayaking activities, I was in need of an inexpensive method of waterproofing my Panasonic LX3.

So I took my generic waterproof plastic box (small size, purchased at Dick's Sporting Goods), that I normally used to keep my keys, phone, emergency first aid kit, etc., in and cut out a 60mm hole in the bottom of it with my hole saw. (I wish I'd taken in-progress photos, but only have the finished product to show for my labor.) I then glued a 58mm UV filter into that hole, using Gorilla Glue. (Gorilla Glue works really well, but if I were to do this again, I'd use a glue that doesn't expand as it dries.)

I then painted the interior, except for the lid, matte black, so that I would be able to see the LCD on the camera more easily. Unfortunately, due to the obvious rigidity of the housing, the only camera function I was able to maintain control over was the shutter button. This was done by drilling a hole into the box immediately above the camera's shutter button. I then glued a standard shutter remote into place in that hole, using a couple of nuts and washers to stabilize it.

I then used some large washers and nuts to create a "seat" for the camera. This would relieve any stress that might otherwise be placed on the cameras structure by having it screwed to the filter. The camera was further held in place (as alluded to above) by screwing the camera to the filter. The LX3 has an extension tube (46mm in diameter) that attaches to the camera and allows for the use of filters. Additionally, I got a 46mm-58mm step-up ring for two reasons: 1) I had several 58mm filters already; and 2) I wanted to have some more surface area on the filter in case I got messy with the glue. Also, I ended up gluing in the step-up ring rather than the filter so that I could change to a Polarizing filter if I wanted.

The camera has to already be attached to the extension tube when I go to screw the extension tube to the step-up ring. As you can see below, the space inside there is pretty tight, so this maneuver is not for those with large or less-than-nimble fingers.

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This setup would be entirely waterproof except that the filter is not completely sealed, where the glass meets the metal. Also I could use Loctite or something on the threads where the filter threads meet the step-up ring threads, but I haven't done that either. In testing it, the allow time that water enter the housing was when I submerged it and held it under. 

Then came the field test. There is a swamp, called North Lake, tucked away into a corner of northeast Birmingham, that I had been wanting to photograph for some time. But it was definitely going to require my being in my kayak in order to get the photographs I wanted. North Lake is the only cypress gum grove in this part of Alabama.